Even the lushest lawn in the spring can start to show signs of wear by fall. Whether it’s from foot traffic, weed invasion, or a dry summer, fall is the perfect time to rejuvenate and thicken your lawn. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about overseeding, helping you achieve a thick and vibrant lawn for the next season.
What is Overseeding?
Overseeding is the process of planting new grass seed on top of an existing lawn. It’s a simple and cost-effective way to repair bare spots, increase thickness, and improve the overall health of your yard. After a successful overseeding, depending on the grass seed you choose, you can expect a fuller, more resilient lawn that withstands environmental stressors, handles foot traffic, and even helps outcompete weeds.
Before We Begin
Overseeding can seem like a daunting task, but it doesn’t have to be. The best time to overseed is in the fall, when soil temperatures dip to around 65°F. You’ll also want to be at least a month away from the average first frost of the year.
Set a cutoff date for applying any weed control, typically about a month before laying down seed. If you miss this window, quinclorac can be applied up to seven days before overseeding. This step is crucial, as you won’t be able to use weed killers until you’ve mowed your new grass twice.
Mow Short
Before overseeding, lower your mowing height to about 2 inches. Bag your clippings and rake up any matted grass or weeds. This will ensure that the grass seed reaches the soil.
To Aerate or Not to Aerate
Aerating can be hard work, especially if you don’t own or rent an aerator. You have several options: rent a machine from a local store, hire someone, or use a hand aerator. Aeration is only necessary if your soil is compacted. The “screwdriver test” is an easy way to check: push a screwdriver into your soil. If it goes in 4-6 inches easily, there’s no need to aerate. If you do decide to aerate, spread topsoil immediately afterward to maximize the benefits.
Preparing the Soil
Getting the seeds to make contact with the soil is key. You can do this by dethatching, scarifying, renting a slit seeder, or simply using a rake or garden weasel. The goal is to break up any thatch and ensure good seed-to-soil contact. Some people prefer dethatchers, but be aware that they can also remove good grass and spread weed seeds. Personally, after dealing with weeds last year, I’m trying the garden weasel method this time around.
Spread the Seed
The quality of the grass seed you use will directly impact your results. Last year, I had good results with Jonathan Green seed, but your best bet is to ask your local garden center for recommendations based on your area. Make sure to follow the recommended seeding rates—overseeding can cause the seeds to compete for resources, resulting in a weaker lawn.
Water, Water, Water
Consistent moisture is critical for seed germination. Water lightly but frequently (3-4 times a day for 10 minutes) for the first 2-3 weeks. As the grass starts to germinate, reduce the frequency but increase the duration. Continue this adjustment as the grass grows: at 1 inch, water 1-2 times a day for 20-30 minutes. By the time you mow for the first time, you should be watering every other day. After the second mow, continue watering every other day until your grass goes dormant.
Fertilizing
A week after seeding, apply a starter fertilizer to help the new grass grow. Continue lightly fertilizing monthly for the rest of the season to keep your lawn healthy.
Mowing
Keep your existing grass at 2 inches until the new grass reaches the same height. For the second mowing, raise the height to 2.5-3 inches. By the third mow, return to your usual mowing height, typically as high as your mower deck allows.
Conclusion
Overseeding might seem like a labor-intensive task, but the results are well worth the effort. This guide provides a solid foundation for anyone looking to improve their lawn’s thickness and health. Happy seeding—and when you’re done, don’t forget to dance on the lawn!
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